![]() I am certain that it was selecting before I fitted the box and before the first run and all other gears are fine. Both are taking power from the original fuse box so the amount of contacts and parts to check is nice and short.Ģnd gear is a bigger issue as I cannot select it with the engine running or not. I initially put the miss-fire down to a bad connection on the crank sensor after speaking to Motorsport Electronics and describing the symptoms but a further test showed the AEM wide-band was also dropping out in sync so I suspect it is just a bad connection in the original loom. The pilot jets have also been swapped out for some new EBC jets.Īn initial test drive was successful in that the car made it around the block but did flag two major issuesġ - A big, random miss-fire / random cutting out The carbs are back on and feeling far more solid with the additional brace, and will hopefully be functioning better now that they are fed by a Filter King set to 2psi. I am happy to report that since my last update there has been some major progress made. Redrebel121 - Sorry, I can only echo what has already been said, I didn't end up using any of the original ECU and very little of the original loom. If it works I will share at some point over the weekend. I have spent too many hours staring at the engine bay trying to figure out a clamping system that will be function, quick to make and not look out of place. I think, as stated above, it is also wise to attempt to replicate a system such as this with straps or clamps.įor this build I am going to start with clamping and thinner clips. The final, and probably key point, is that in most instances I have seen, the carbs on the bike are also held on by the airbox / filter. I suspect it would offer an improvement over just plain silicon hose. What I am now considering is whether these mounts could be used on my current manifold without the groove. If I were making manifold from scratch I would be very inclined to use this design. This manifold had the same groove machined into it as the carb, giving a really positive engagement. I did find an example of a build which I think solves the problem perfectly: Generic bike carb with engine mounting side on the right. Both are a bit harder to replicate on a cheap manifold compared to a plain bit of gas pipe which is probably why this system is not used more. There are two types, one with a bolt on flange and one with a mirrored geometry to locate onto a machined manifold. Bikes have moulded mounts with a groove that locates into a machined groove in the carb. The next option, and in my mind probably the best, is to replicate the original bike setup. ![]() I believe that this is how some of the better kits are equipped but cannot find confirmation. This focuses the clamping onto the generally short 'stub' on the carb, reducing the tenancy for the clamping to actually push the carb off the hose. This setup can be improved with the addition of special thin clips. There are a great many kits on the market using this system along. This is okay, and for some seems to be perfectly reliable. Standard procedure is to mount the carbs onto a fabricated manifold with some silicone hose and Jubilee clips. To be clear, I knew nothing about bike carbs before starting this project, and they were only fitted because a kit came up very cheap on Facebook Marketplace which I thought would be a shortcut to getting the car running compared to fabricating my own manifold for twin SUs. I will try to summarise as it may be interesting to someone and I had to spend a lot of timing digging to get all of the information. Fingers crossed that is the cooling system reasonably watertight for now, ![]() The O-ring was swapped for a genuine Nissan part and the rear leak traced to a loose hose clip. Hopefully the oil pressure is good on the engine! If not, I can rewire it to take signal from the alternator. This should mean that the pump will only run when the engine is running unless I am cranking. It's a mildly annoying noise and a major safety concern so I fitted a 5 pole relay which is controlled by the oil pressure switch, with an override from the starter motor. I never liked that it was constantly on with the ignition. ![]() So a little more progress has been made in prep for a first test drive.įirst up was sorting out some control for the electric fuel pump. ![]()
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